Maybe that you have been surprised to see a different speed on your bike console or GPS counter than the app. This is normal as we don't use the raw speed sent by your equipment.
How your speed is calculated:
The simulation engine :
It allows operating a fair comparison between the performances produced from different models of fitness/cycling equipment, not relying on the manufacturer's engine.
Thanks to this simulation engine, the calculations are the same for all kinds of equipment, as long as they provide the Watts produced (if not we use the watt calculation that we'll see below).
This simulation engine is here to reproduce as accurately as possible the outdoor experience, taking into account the fact that you can stop pedaling to recover, without being stopped directly. Like in real-life, you can stop pedaling in the app and continue moving forward. You can even accelerate in a descent without having to pedal, like on a real descent finally. This is possible thanks to our simulation engine.
Our simulation engine is based on the produced power, either sent directly by the equipment or being calculated by the Kinomap app if not:
Classic home trainer with a speed/cadence sensor or Exercise bikes not providing the power:
When using a home trainer with a speed/sensor, the app is taking your raw speed and manual level of resistance as inputs to estimate your energy output.
Then we get a calculated WATT value that we compute with many other parameters: the main one being the grade of the road but also your weight, kinetic energy (=your previous speed), and rolling resistance coefficients to recalculate what should be your actual speed in real life.
The main inconvenience with this kind of equipment is that we don't know which resistance level you set, because your equipment can't send it, meaning that if you set a lower resistance than expected, your calculated produced power will not be accurate as you'll certainly ride faster than if you had applied the right resistance. Same if you apply a higher resistance than expected, in fact, you probably produce more power but, as the calculation is based on the theoretical resistance, you'll certainly have a lower produced power.
Smart Trainer or power sensor or exercise bikes providing the power :
This is the most accurate experience, as there is no theoretical power estimation. If you change your gear on the bike no problem, the power sensor will measure your real effort.
When using a power sensor or a smart trainer, the app is taking your power as an input and do the same calculation, using the grade of the road but also your weight, kinetic energy (= your previous speed), and rolling resistance coefficients to recalculate what should be your actual speed in real life.
Comments
5 comments
Dear Kinomap,
Is there a possibility to calibrate the speed. I've a Flow Fitness DSB600i Interactive Spiningbike and it's embarrassing how fast I should be.
My rides are all published on Strava and I'm often getting the comment when I'm becoming a pro.
When I look at the ratings of the Hammer Series, it surprises me that the top 10 are all Interactive Spinningbikes or interactive hometrainers. It's the only reason for me not feeling guilty of being third.
My rides are in my opinion on average 30% to fast and the power is on average 30% to high.
10%-15% I can explain, because you don't have to brake before corners and other traffic. But the rest is wrong input from the bike.
Can you think of a solution, I am becoming tired of al the comment I'm getting and think cycling with Kinomap is to much fun not to do it for the comment.
Your sincerely,
Erik1187
Dear,
I have the opposite problem compared to the user above: I have connected an elliptical (Focus Fox 3 iPlus) and almost can't get above 7 km/h, even with massive effort. Whe running in real life I can easily sustain 9-13 km/h.
Is there anyway to calibrate the speed to be more realisticly matching the effort made?
Thanks!
Dieter
Definitely agree with the other posts. I wish that I could have the option to mirror the speed from my indoor cycle for consistency purposes so that when my bike reads that I'm going 15mph the Kinomap app doesn't show me as going 45mph. That disparity is ridiculous.
Also to be able to calibrate the running cadence would be huge. The app says that my speed is 15mph, when in reality it is 8mph. Just too big of a difference to make the app realistically usable.
Thanks
Hello,
Whatever formula you are using. It is wrong. Can I get a 1:1 for my cadence and speed sensors? And if I want to use the resistance then I will. The map tells me I'm going 1 mph and I'm going at least 20 mph. I did a 4 mile map and it felt like I went 30 miles. Let the user decide how to work out. I want 1 mph to equal 1 mph and 1 mile to equal 1 mile. Then I will choose what resistance to use. Either the maps suggestion or what I want to use.
Thanks
Yeah, is it possible to calibrate in the app?
I've got the same problem als the first person.
Im cycling during work in a kind of relaxed way getting sweaty after maybe 30 minutes, but im at a constant of 35 km/h, where i think that with this speed it should be more like between 22-26
I have set the cycle at the max weight to make it a little harder, but that doesnt seem to work enough.
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